Chumphon

Chumphon is where the Gulf of Thailand begins and the gateway to island-hopping south. Most travelers blow through on the way to ferries for Koh Tao, Koh Pha Ngan, and Koh Samui — but the province itself deserves more than a transfer stop. The coastline has quiet beaches like Thung Wua Laen, a long crescent of sand with budget bungalows and some of the best shore diving on the mainland Gulf coast. Hat Sai Ri and Ao Thung Makham are smaller and even more peaceful.

Chumphon town is a genuine Thai market town with none of the tourist infrastructure, which is part of the charm. The night market is lively, and the local specialty is khanom jeen (rice noodles) with a southern-style fish curry. Mu Ko Chumphon National Park protects a chain of islands offshore with coral reefs and whale shark sightings during plankton season (March-April). The Pak Nam Chumphon estuary is a birdwatcher's spot, and the forested hills inland hide caves and quiet waterfalls.