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Many visitors to Bangkok find the city hard
to navigate, often overwhelmed by the pollution,
hustle and bustle and traffic volume. However,
there is an easy and relaxing way to take in
many of the city's highlights just a short stroll
from Khaosan Road.
To get to the mighty Chao Phraya River, simply
walk to the Gulliver's end of Khaosan Road and
cross the road. Take the short cut through Wat
Chana Songkram and you will be in Soi Rambhutri.
Follow the narrow lane ahead, cross the road
and turn left. After about 50 meters you will
come to a narrow alley leading to the pier.
Should you get lost, simply ask any Thai 'meanam
unai' (may-nam u-nigh) where is the river?
You are now on the banks of the Chao Phraya
River, which is the preferred form of transport
for many people. The river runs 372 kms from
North to South and runs next to some of the
city's most interesting attractions. The closest
pier to Khaosan Road is Tha (pier) Phra Athit
- pier 13. From here, you can take a ferry down
the river to the central pier. The journey takes
about 30 minutes and is worth it just for the
unexpected and intriguing sights on both sides,
even if you don't feel like exploring.
Finding the correct ferry is easy if you know
what you're looking for. The ferry will come
from your right and have Nonthamburi written
on the side. I prefer to catch the orange flag
Express boats as they stop at all piers and
come every 20 minutes. Yellow flag ferries stop
at 10 piers, whilst those with a blue flag stop
at just 3. The white Local Line Boat runs from
6-8:40 and 15:00-18:00. This ferry is mainly
for commuters and very crowded. A trip along
the river in an orange flag boat costs around
13 baht and tickets can be bought on board.
I prefer to stand near the back, but be careful
to avoid the area reserved for monks.
Alternatively, you may choose the Chao Phraya
Tourist Boat, which is much larger and comfortable,
if a little more expensive. The tourist boats
often come with a guide, who will tell you the
facts about each site as you chug past.
Once everyone is aboard, the conductor indicates
to the driver through a system of high-pitched
whistles and the journey is away. First, the
ferry crosses the river to pier 12, Phra Pinklao
Bridge. This is the closest stop to the Royal
Barge Museum, which is worth a look.
Carrying on down the river, pier 11 is next
to the Bangkok Noi (Thonburi) Railway Station,
convenient if you're catching a train out of
Bangkok, whilst pier 10 is near Siriraj hospital
and the Patravadi Theatre, home to Bangkok's
independent modern theatre company. After pier
10 the ferry crosses the river once more and
arrives at Tha Chang, from where you can explore
the Grand Palace.
Next, the ferry rounds a bend in the river
and you are faced with one of the route's most
arresting sites. The bell-shaped pagoda of Wat
Arun - temple of dawn - sits on the right-hand
river bank. To visit the temple, get off at
pier 8 and take a small ferry across the river.
Wat Po - home of the Reclining Buddha - is also
just a short walk from pier 8. Further down
the river, we come to Memorial Bridge - also
known as Saphan Phut - at pier 6. Across the
bridge you will find Wat Prayoon (the turtle
temple) and the Princess Mother Memorial Park.
Next to the pier is Pak Klong Market, Bangkok's
largest wet market and flower distribution center.
Pier 5 is named Tha Rachawongs. This is the
best place to stop if you want to explore China
Town in all its colourful chaos.
The Chao Phraya Express Boat Co., Ltd (CPEX)
was established by Khunying Supatra Singhulaka
in September 1971. The company reports that
around 35,000 to 40,000 passengers use its ferries
each day, totaling around 14.6 million passengers
every year!
Further down the river we come to pier 3, Tha
Si Phraya. Here you will find an interesting
antiques market and the Portuguese Embassy.
Pier 1 is largely dedicated to the Oriental
Hotel, which is a great place for a cup of tea.
You can also visit the Assumption Cathedral
and the recently renovated French Embassy.
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