Isaan By Motorbike

Travel Journal of Spider March 2008 - Day

DAY 1 Monday

OK this is it, almost ready to go. My bag was packed and my very loose plans were made. I had a place to stay for the night; a friend of my girlfriend put me up for the first night. This was a long ride, maybe 400 kilometres on the first day. I wanted to go this far so I could make good headway into the journey and have more time later on to look around and rest. 

I got the confirmation for my accident insurance, just in time!. 

Right, had a shower and breakfast, one last check of the bag then time to go. My days ride was from Bangkok to Borabue, close to Roi Et in Isaan. 

After a confusing time trying to get out of Pathum Thani I headed out towards Saraburi, to the North East of Bangkok. The roads were awesome, nice and smooth with a steady traffic flow making it all easier to get along. I stopped after around an hour and a half, close to the Julasid Reservoir for some lunch. 

A typical roadside restaurant. No frills, far too many seats, the thought of all of these seats being filled more than a couple of times a year is a constant puzzle to me. Is it just optimism that makes people build such large restaurants? The price tag went with the size of the building. 77 baht for a plate of mediocre fried rice. Serves me right I suppose for judging the price of the book by its cover. 

One thing I had not really thought about was the hardness of the seat on my bike. It’s not a touring bike and was not fitted with any extra creature comforts, such as a well padded seat. Getting back on the bike after the first break was almost enough to putt me off carrying on. After all, this was only the first leg of the first day and my ass was already feeling like the morning after far too much spicy food. 

After passing Nakhon Ratchasima (local title Ko Rat) I saw a beautiful temple a little way off the main road. It was still under construction. It is a huge project that is nearing its completion. Inside the main temple there is a huge black image of an old Thai Buddhist teacher and philosopher, Luang Pooh Toh.  

After leaving the temple I notice a change in the landscape. The number of buildings and roadside business is dropping. The road really opened up into what I had been looking forward too. Not stopping for kilometre after kilometre. Nothing like riding around Bangkok and the surrounding semi developed areas. Bangkok gives me more traffic lights than I had ever thought possible in a simple journey to work.  

These roads started to wind their way through the opening countryside. Bright blue skies with hardly a cloud to be seen. Burning sun was scorching me along with the tarmac and the livestock that was being tended to along the roadsides. The first time I had to stop after a terrific run was for a family of cows that had decided to cross the road. I turned on some speed after this as the light was starting to fail and I had to find my bed for the night in Borabue. These new roads long and straight, perfect.

I got my sore ass into Borabue. I realised at this point that I had no idea where the house was that I was staying in. I called my friend to guide me to her place, she was kind enough to pick me up and show me the way other place. I was only about half a kilometre away so just a few minutes from rest.  

The place I stayed was a wedding outfitter. A huge place. I was welcomed in and given food. Thai people have such a warm way of welcoming guests into their homes. The friend I was to stay with had to spend the night in the hospital to take care for of her father, leaving me in the capable hands of her brothers and their friends.  

I declined the offers of going out with them as I was still on antibiotics and not feeling so energised after the long haul of the day. I ate and took my leave to sleep.  

I was awoken around 1 am by the younger brother. He was excited and keen for me to drink with his friends. I was not in the mood for drinking but felt rude to decline. I went downstairs to join the friends for a drink. 

Dem, Aem, Nong A, Pi A then the older brother and his friends came to join. I was confused by so many non English speakers all trying to talk to me at the same time. I can usually hold my own and understand some of the conversation that’s going on but this for me was a little too much. I sat, smiled and sipped at the never empty glass in front of me. Sang Som, one of the oldest drinking traditions in Thailand. You pay for it in the morning though!  

After a while one of the kateouys there started to massage my shoulders. Not too bad, a free massage is a free massage. A little too much power maybe, lol. There seemed to be some mirth developing, I felt it was at my expense. Yes it was. 

Finally I got my sleep.
Motorbike Travels in Thailand Day One | Motorbike Travels in Thailand Day Two | Motorbike Travels in Thailand Day Three | More to come