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Thailand's
Floating Markets - The Real Thing |
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| Ever since childhood, I have been fascinated
by images of Thailand’s floating markets,
or talat naam. What could be more exotic
and inviting than the wooden boats filled
with fruit, flowers and vegetables, floating
through the narrow waterways? The vibrant
colours of these busy market scenes are
rich and evocative, especially to someone
living in a cold, concrete city. |
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| Finally finding myself in Bangkok many
years later, traveling to a floating market
was high on my list of priorities. Still
being a bit green and speaking very little
Thai, I decided to book a tour to Damnoen
Saduak Floating market. |
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| Early the next morning, I found myself
being herded into a mini van and being driven
80 km with about a dozen other sleepy-eyed
tourists. I watched in awe as the city’s
concrete was gradually replaced by picturesque
farms and palm trees. |
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| After about two hours, we are taken to
a small outdoor factory, where the sap from
palm trees is turned into sweet, fudge-like
sugar. My feeling of peace and tranquility
quickly fades as I emerge from the mini
van. Green as I am, I can still see that
this site is entirely engineered for tourists. |
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| Our guide gives a brief talk
on how palm sugar is made, and we watch
men boiling palm sap in huge woks. After
being given a piece of the sugar to try,
we are left to wander for twenty minutes.
However, the only thing to see is a large
collection of bowls and cooking utensils
crafted from coconut wood. Tourists paw
through the items, unaware and unconcerned
about the inflated prices. |
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| Soon enough, we are back in
the mini van and after another twenty minutes
we are herded into a long, wooden boat.
The boat speeds along a network of narrow
canals, churning up dirty water and spraying
it onto passersby. Dozens of tiny houses
fringe the waterways and I watch scenes
of domesticity; women peeling vegetables
and gossiping, dogs fighting and children
playing. |
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| Before long, we arrive at Damnoen
Saduak and clamber out of the boat. As I
take in the bustle of the market, my heart
quickly sinks into my sandals. The entire
scene is dominated by stalls selling trashy
tourist treasures. |
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| The rich colours I had been
looking forward to take the form of cheap
wooden umbrellas, glass elephants and plastic
fans. Not quite the authentic Thai experience
I had been looking for. |
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| My group is shepherded onwards
once again until we find ourselves crammed
into a much smaller boat. The next half
an hour is an extreme lesson in tolerance.
As the boat is steered through the crowded
canal or ‘klong’, we are shouted at from
every direction. Cries of; ‘Hey, you, look
here,’ 'I have good price for you,’ many
nice things I have,’ fill the air. |
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| There are so many boats crushed
together that it is almost impossible for
us to progress along the klong. The sellers
take advantage of this, grabbing onto our
boat and holding us hostage as they try
to ply their wares. |
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| Later that night, I am drowning
my sorrows in one of Khoasan Road’s busy
bars, vowing never to take another package
tour as long as I live. By chance, I get
talking to a man from Germany, who tells
me about the Taling Chan Floating Market.
“Not many tourists go there,” he tells me.
“It is an authentic |
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market used by Thai people. No rubbish souvenirs there.”
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Feeling slightly skeptical, I catch a bus to the Taling
Chan District Office one Sunday morning. To my pleasant
surprise, I am greeted by the sight of women in blue
overalls, or ‘mor hom’ and conical hats, slowly paddling
boats filled with fruit, vegetables and flowers.
Before concrete covered the land, klongs were Bangkok’s
main form of transport. People built their houses
alongside the canals, and floating markets served
those without the means to travel.
Once I have finished shopping, I sit alongside the
klong, sipping a cup of sweet tea. I feel pleased
that for once I have broken through the tourist barrier
and seen the real Thailand.
Getting There:
Getting There: The Taling Chan Floating Market is
held on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m to 4 p.m.
To get there, take bus 79 or 83, or telephone 02424
5448 for more details.
Here are some other floating markets around Bangkok:
The Tha Kha Floating Market is held six days
a month from 6-12 on weekends, varying according to
the Thai lunar calendar. Situated 10 kms past Damnoen
Saduak, it is best to visit around 7 a.m. A return
taxi journey costs around 700 Baht. Alternatively,
take a bus to Samut Songkham from the Southern Bus
Terminal and a mini bus from there.
Situated in the Bang Kruai district of Nonthanburi,
the bang Khu Wian Floating Market is also worth
a look. Visit around dawn and you will see traditional
scenes of village life, untainted by modern values.
To get there, simply take a boat from the Tha Chang
Pier near the Grand Palace.
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For
more places to visit in Bangkok and Thailand see the
Khao San Road Travel guide |
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About the author:
Kirsty
Turner (Kay) is currently living in Bangkok
where she teaches English at Rajabhat Suan Dusit.
Kay has kindly agreed to write for KhaoSanRoad.com
and share her love of all things Thai and, especially,
all things Khao San Road!
More articles by this author:
Wat
Saket - the Golden Mount
| Things
to Do Under 50 Baht | My
Date with Mr Thailand | Confessions
of a Coward: An Indian Adventure |
Koh
Phangan - a Magical Mystery Tour | Thailand's
Floating Markets - The Real Thing |
The
Beauty of Big Mountain: Khao Yai National
Park |
Loy Krathong - of Light and Water |
May Kaidee : Veggie Power |
Park Life |
Go Koh
Chang | Of House and
Home - Spirit Houses |
Patravadi Theatre
- Play Acting | Erawan
Waterfall | Pad
Thai - The Stuff of Life
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