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Another lazy day on holiday and I am sitting
at Póg Mó Thón bar on the beautiful Koh Phangan,
waiting for the guide of the Reggae Magic Boat
Trip to arrive. As I wait I watch in wonder
as a Thai man tries to sell his tiny exotically
coloured ‘pet’ bird. “Ha roi,” he announces
to my indignation. “No! Mai arroy!” I cry, thinking
the man has just told his friends that the bird
would be delicious. “No, no,” the man laughs.
“I say I will sell bird for 500 Baht, ha roi!”
Just then the bird escapes from the man’s grip
and flies out of reach onto a rooftop.
Just then, the enigmatic Thai man who calls
himself Peter Pan strides around the corner.
Dressed in yellow shorts, a patch work shirt
streaked with gold and a brightly-coloured scarf,
the man’s colourful costume matches his personality
perfectly. “It’s OK, I am here now,” he chirps.
“We can go!”
The relieved Israelis, who have been impatiently
waiting, and I follow Peter Pan to a large wooden
boat with a large group of relieved Israelis.
There are 22 of us in all, including Peter and
his two helpers, but there is plenty of room
for us all.
Like a genial genie, Peter Pan sits cross-legged
on the cool box, smiling down on us. "Now, we
must balance the boat, otherwise we will flip
over," he tells us once we are all aboard. "I
not care if you drown, but I love my boat, you
know?"
It takes about an hour for us to reach our
first destination. I lounge in the boat, lazily
watching the scenery and the sun sparkle on
the idyllically blue water.
Finally, we reach the beautiful beach of Haad
Sadet and the boat shudders to a halt. The boat
rocks violently as all the passengers race for
the shore, eager to explore.
Once on terra firma, we pile into a waiting
truck and are transported along a steep, treacherous
road. Then, on foot, we follow a winding jungle
path.
Suddenly, I emerge from the trees to find myself
at the foot of the enchanting Than Sadet waterfall.
Carefully climbing over huge granite boulders
and navigating pools of fresh water, I make
my way to where the others are waiting.
Than Sadet is Koh Phangan's most famous waterfall.
This 3km fall has had its share of royal attention.
It was first visited by King Rama V in 1888.
The magnificent waterfall clearly crept into
his heart, for King Rama V visited the fall
more than 10 times. The current monarch, King
Bhumibol, has also visited Than Sadet and its
waters are used for royal ceremonies.
After about half an hour, we begin to make
our way back to the beach. Back in the boat,
we sail for another 30 minutes or so. I sprawl
on the deck, basking in the sun's rays.
Soon enough, we reach Haad Khuat, also known
as Bottle Beach. "You know why we call it Bottle
Beach?" Peter Pan asks from his perch on the
cool box. "Because that's its name?" I chime
in before I can stop myself. "No," peter Pan
grins. "Because it is shaped like a bottle."
We climb out of the boat once more and onto
the deserted golden beach. The only sign of
civilization is a small restaurant, where we
are scheduled to eat lunch. After perusing the
extensive menu, I decide on vegetable pad Thai,
as I don't want to be too full for swimming.
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