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It’s a beautiful sunny day and I have decided to
hire a motorbike to drive the 65 kilometres from Kanchanaburi
to the enchanting Erawan National Park in the west
of Thailand, near the Burmese border.
The journey takes me just over an hour and is mostly
flat, before leading me up a winding tree-lined hill.
On the way up the hill I stop to buy petrol from a
small stand and get talking to the owner, a friendly
robust woman called Pim.
Pim laughs when she hears that I intend to climb
to the top of Erawan Waterfall, the majestic seven-tiered
fall that is about 1,500 meters high. “You cannot
do it,” Pim grins. “you are much too fat!”
I thank Pim for her kind words and continue my journey,
noticing how empty the road is and how beautiful the
scenery. Before long I have reached the park and leave
my bike in the car park.
As I walk through the forest to the first level of
the waterfall, I pass by a guide giving instructions
to a group of brightly-clad tourists. “Remember, the
monkeys like to bite. Last week a monkey bit of someone’s
hand!” the guide grinned at the look of alarm at the
tourist’s face. “No, I am joking. But take care.”
I pass the group and reach the first level, which
is stunningly beautiful. Although only a shallow fall,
the water is clear and inviting and the forest backdrop
is very pretty. Several people are already at this
level, splashing in the water, balancing on logs or
eating picnics.
I continue up a flight of steps to the second level,
which features a deep pool filled with cool water.
It is a long climb up to the third level, and I am
hot and breathless by the end of it. I remember Pim’s
words and wonder if I will make it to the top.
The fall at level three is much larger and extremely
pretty. This seems like a good place to swim and its
not long before I’m splashing about in the crystal
clear aquamarine water. But I am not alone. After
a few seconds I am attacked by a school of fish, who
are intent on eating my skin. Luckily, these fish
are only about an inch long and simply want to feast
on my dead skin cells, so I’m safe enough. Still,
the fish are persistent ands swimming with them is
like being struck by a series of minor electric shocks.
Erawan falls is situated in Erawan National Park,
which covers 550 sq kms and receives around 60,000
visitors each year. The falls are named after Erawan,
the three-headed elephant of Hindu faith as the falling
water is said to resemble the mighty beast.
After sitting sunbathing on some rocks to dry off,
I embark on the challenging climb up ton level five.
Sweat is pouring off me as I struggle to climb the
steep hill. Luckily, there is a lookout point halfway
up and I take the opportunity to rest as I enjoy the
spectacular view across the lush landscape.
My spirits are lifted as I reach level five and am
greeted by the sweet sounds of singing, music and
laughter. A group of Thai teenagers have somehow carried
their guitars up the mountain, and I rest for a while
enjoying the way the light blends with the sounds
of the birds and the breeze in the trees.
The climb to level six is equally challenging, but
once there I am greeted by the sight of a large waterfall
and deep pool. This level is completely deserted,
and I
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