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Chiang Mai Trekking

There are some people to whom climbing trees, scrambling up mountains and fording streams comes naturally. Sadly, I am not one of those people. But even I can appreciate the need to get back to nature sometimes and explore the wilderness.

If you plan on spending time in Thailand, a trek in the north should definitely be on your to do list. Trekking offers to unique opportunity to leave the tourists behind, get some fresh air and meet some of the many hill tribe groups who have made this area of Thailand their home.

Most tours last for 3 days and 2 nights, although you can choose to extend your trek for several weeks. The best places to book your tour are the numerous tour offices in the bustling city of Chiang Mai or in the mountain village of Pai.

My tour starts at 8:30 in the morning when a large covered truck rattles up to my guesthouse to collect me. There are nine of us on the tour: myself and my friend, an English couple on their honeymoon, two cousins from Finland, cheeky tour leader Ban, his assistant Fuke and Fuke’s girlfriend.

As the truck bounces its way through the countryside we all get to know each other. We are all tired from the early start but enthusiastic, not least of all Ban, who is our very own Energizer bunny.

“Are you ready to have fun?” Ban screams at us. “Come on guys, we are on HOLIDAY!” one of the Finnish guys grunts and tries to go back to sleep, much to Ban’s disappointment.

After about 2½ hours the truck stops at a small, open-sided hut and Ban announces that it’s time for lunch. “Are you HUNGRY?” this time we are far more enthusiastic and are soon munching our way through plates of pad thai, followed by fresh pineapple and watermelon.

Then it’s time to start our trek. The first part is easy as we walk for about an hour along a well trodden path through the forest. Cicada beetles buzz loudly and the scent of the forest is fresh and invigorating. As we walk, Ban stops to point out things of interest; “You see, that one is a tree. Big tree,” and shoot Fuke with a handmade slingshot.

Before long we have reached a Chinese hill tribe village. Ban tells us that we are free to wander around, but the villagers who sit staring into space outside their huts prove unresponsive as Ban attempts to ask them questions. “I don’t think they like me!” he mutters in embarrassment.

Bidding our silent hosts goodbye, we walk away down the dusty track, moving deep into the forest. Now the going is mostly uphill and much tougher. We often find ourselves following narrow paths with huge drops on one side. The coward in me balks at this, but the others seem to love the adventure of it.

After about three hours we arrive – very sweaty and tired – at a Karen village. The village consists of a collection of about a dozen wooden huts, each on four foot high stilts. All the villagers here are self sufficient, lively solely off their own skills as farmers, and dozens of pigs and chickens roam freely. My group is told that we will be setting up camp here for the night and invited to explore.

As the sun sets, dinner is served on a long wooden table in the centre of the village. We are all starving and quickly demolish the curry, vegetable and rice dishes.

Later, the tour guides build a fire and we all sit around it and relax with a few beers. Ban gets out his guitar and starts to sing loud, off-key Western songs. Suddenly, he starts to sing "Puff the Magic Dragon"! I wonder if he knows what the song is really about. I start to giggle and retreat to my bed before I lose face too much.

The six trekkers share a large room in one of the big wooden huts. I awake early in the morning to the sound of baby chicks and pigs and peer through the floorboards beneath me to glimpse them searching for food. Totally spellbound, i get up to watch them while my fellow trekkers snore away.

There are several hill tribe groups living in the north of Thailand including Hmong, Mein, Lisu, Akkha and Paduang. Each group has migrated from one of the surrounding countries such as China or Myanmar and still follow their cultures, lifestyles and clothing patterns.

The group that we are staying with are known as the White-Karen and originally came from Myanmar. They wear beautiful multi-coloured woven clothes and are very friendly. As I explore the village I am invited to watch as a couple of women use a huge wooden tool to take the husks of their rice, while another women attempts to teach me to weave bracelets.

Once the others are finally up and we’ve had breakfast it is time to continue our trek. We walk for about an hour to a jungle clearing, where a few elephants – managed by a man from the Karen village – stand waiting. We carefully climb aboard and set off for a thrilling ride through the jungle.

When we are finished, i find that it is hard to say goodbye to the mighty beasts and start walking again. We have to walk for about six hours that day, some of the way across rope bridges, rocks and narrow ledges. The scenery was simply stunning as we passed lush paddy fields, through a thick pine forest and followed a flowing river.

At mid afternoon we finally came to a stop beside a small waterfall. In a nearby clearing stand three huts – our accommodation for the night. We all spend the rest of the day swimming, eating and drinking beer, happy to have finished walking for the day.

In the evening a very drunk Ban insists on showing us some magic tricks before we all turn in for the night. The forest is pitch black, which is a bit unnerving for those of us that are used to the bright lights and sounds of the city.

Waking up in a private hut beside a waterfall is simple magical. Poor Ban seemed very much the worst for wear though. After a gruelling three hour walk on sore feet and legs we stopped to enjoy a picnic beside the Mae Tang River.

Finally, completely exhausted but pleased by our natural encounter, we climb back into the truck and are driven to Chiang Mai. Sometimes it’s worth stepping out of the city for a touch of nature. But only every once in a while!

Information:

The best time to go trekking is between November and February. Remember to take a small backpack with a change of clothes, swimming gear, towel etc and wear comfortable walking shoes. Insect repellent is also a must.

About the author:

Kirsty Turner (Kay) is currently living in Bangkok where she she is a travel writer.

More articles by this author:

Wat Saket - the Golden Mount | Things to Do Under 50 Baht | My Date with Mr Thailand | Confessions of a Coward: An Indian Adventure | Koh Phangan - a Magical Mystery Tour | Thailand's Floating Markets - The Real Thing | The Beauty of Big Mountain: Khao Yai National Park | Loy Krathong - of Light and Water | May Kaidee : Veggie Power | Park Life | Go Koh Chang | Of House and Home - Spirit Houses | Patravadi Theatre - Play Acting | Erawan Waterfall | Pad Thai - The Stuff of Life | Puttamonthon Park - Lizard Safari | Focus on Culture: Thai Superstitions and Beliefs | Veggie Delight | Wakeboarding in Thailand | Ready, Set, Go-kart! | Phuket Vegetarian Festival | Baiyoke Tower | Dream World | Incense | Dusit Zoo | Wat Doi Suthep | Wat Arun | Bangkok Parks | Surprise in the City | Ancient City | Penang, Malaysia | Future Light Childrens Home | Chiang Mai Trekking

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