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Joe Cummings: Who is the man in front of the backpack?
Over the last few months www.khaosanroad.com visitors sent
us questions they wanted us to put to Joe. Some questions
were pretty hard hitting, some downright rude - we put
them to him nonetheless. The result was some pretty surprising
answers and some pretty amazing reading.
Part two of the Joe Cummings interview:
Q: Khao San has obviously changed. Has the change been
for the better?
Q: Which of the changes to Khao San do you think have
been positive? Which changes do you think have been detrimental
for the area?
Q: Do you agree that some people go to Khao San Road
to take part in the `travel' experience rather than to
travel? If that's the case, does this means Khao San has
become a traveller's theme park?
A: I'm going to try and answer these three questions
together with some general comments on KSR, OK? If you
ask KSR residents whether the change has been for the
better, I think most of them will respond that their standard
of living has improved significantly since it became a
budget traveller's hub, and that they feel fortunate to
be living there. There's more money for books and school
uniforms, even enough left in family budgets to send local
children to college. Those residents that didn't like
the development probably left the area over the last decade,
and those were probably people who already had money and
decided to cash out. I'm sure there is some nostalgia
for the Banglamphu of days past, but I'd wager few people
would trade it for their current standard of living.
KSR is Thailand, but it's an internationalised piece of
Thailand. Among other things, it has become something
of a window on the outside world for young Thais who can't
afford a plane ticket to Kathmandu or Amsterdam or New
York or London. Among the Bangkok public in general it
has become a pretty hip place to hang out or at least
talk about. KSR entered a new phase three or four years
ago, making it now quite passé to put it down as not being
Thailand, etc. Three of Bangkok's trendiest bars are found
in the KSR area, two of them in alleys right off KSR and
one about a block west, and the clientele at all three
is about 85% Thai. Thais are charged a cover charge, but
farangs get in free, a pleasant turnaround of the usual
way of collecting admission fees!
By the way, the best KSR article I've so far read was
one by Rolf Potts, who did something for his Salon.com
column, Vagabonding. Potts really did his research, and
comes up with interesting angles. You'll find it at http://www.salon.com/travel/diary/pott/1999/10/12/potts/index.html
One of the worst Khao San Road articles I've read, at
least in a major magazine, was the Susan Orleans piece
in the New Yorker.
Q: Lonely Planet has obviously played a role in the
Khao San boom - every other traveller on the street carries
a Lonely Planet or a guide of some sort. How do you feel
about this?
A: I feel good about any small role I may have
had in providing new sources of income for local Thais.
I don't mind that KSR has become something of a backpacker
ghetto, because I know that most of the backpackers staying
in the area are simply using KSR as a sort of decompression
chamber between jaunts to more remote parts of Thailand
and Southeast Asia. For those who spend most of their
time in Thailand in KSR -- well, all I can say is you're
missing the best parts. But I think that's not the norm.
Q: When a place is mentioned in a Lonely Planet guidebook
it instantly becomes popular. As such, the place mentioned
changes. Are you concerned about this?
A: Places don't always change just because I write
about them. Any place that goes downhill because it becomes
popular probably wasn't a very good spot to begin with.
When that happens I get another shot at them in the next
edition! Over the years I've found that places with good
management and good intentions stay good -- sometimes
they even get better.
Q: How often is Lonely Planet updated? Who does the
updating and how do you go about it?
A: LP guides are updated every two to three years,
although with Thailand we've kept to a fairly tight two-year
schedule. I do the updating myself, but I get lots of
input from readers, from the Internet, from Thai media
and from friends who live in various parts of Thailand.
For the upcoming 9th edition, Steven Martin updated approximately
one third of the guide.
Q: Are there any other places that you have come across
that are similar to Khao San? Where are they? How are
they similar? How do they differ?
A: The Thamel neighbourhood in Kathmandu is similar.
I'm sure there are other places in the world like it,
but in Asia I'd say Thamel comes closest. Some people
compare Khao San with Kuta Beach in Bali, but Kuta doesn't
have the variety of people and businesses that Khao San
and Thamel have, in my opinion.
Q: What do you think makes Khao San unique?
A: The Bangkok Thai's tolerance for lifestyle variation.
Q: In your opinion, what do you think are the local
Thai's views about Khao San and the people who stay there?
A: It used to be that the term 'farang banglamphu'
(Banglamphu foreigner) referred to any foreign traveller
who wore ratty clothing and didn't bathe very frequently.
That perspective is still around, but nowadays Khao San
has much more of a trendy appeal for Thais. Khao San Road
also has a reputation as a centre for drug dealing, at
least in the Thai newspapers.
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QUOTES:
"No one smoothes the path like Joe Cummings, guidebook
author supreme." -- Outside magazine
"Perhaps the hardest working, best known, and most successful
guidebook writer in the world." -- Thailand & Indochina
Traveller
on Thailand: "One of those rare travel guides written
with such care and insight it deserves listing as literature."
-- American Geographical Society
on Laos: "Everything you could possibly need to know about
Laos - the wildlife, architecture, transportation, even
how to order an Ovaltine." -- USA Today
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