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From Page 1
I didn't step foot on KSR again until 1981 when I
was researching the first edition of LP's Thailand guide.
I was looking for a cheap place to stay that was near
the river, so that I could do all the riverside temples,
check out river boat schedules, and so on. This was early
1981, and I found two Chinese Thai hotels on Khao San:
Nit Jaroen Suk and another one whose Thai name escapes
me at the moment but it's now called the Khao San Palace
Hotel. The Nit Jaroen Suk is now called "New Nith Charoen
Suk" or something like that. I stayed in one of those
hotels every time I passed through Bangkok that year,
as the location was perfect for checking out the historic
Ko Ratanakosin and Banglamphu districts. These hotels
were the only multistorey buildings on KSR at the time,
as I recall. Room rates were around 80B a night then.
I didn't see any guesthouses on the street that year,
but the LP guide came out in 1982 and in 1983 I returned
to Bangkok to work on the second edition. This time around
I found that my two Chinese-Thai favourites were full,
so I checked out alleys off Khao San and found two guesthouses,
Bonny and Top. It seemed to me they were opened in 1982,
but it's possible they were there in 1981 and I simply
missed them. Anyway I stayed at Bonny a few nights on
that visit, and later found a wonderful hotel in an old
thick-walled Ratanakosin-era building down an alley on
the other side of KSR. It was called Charoen-dee, and
it became a favourite of mine for awhile. It closed a
few years later but I think the building is still there,
behind a row of shophouses on the north side of KSR towards
the eastern end of the block.
From 1983 till 1988 or 1989, Khao San Road seemed to add
one or two new guesthouses a year. People simply turned
their homes into guesthouses. I'm fairly certain it was
not because travellers were asking to stay in private
homes, but rather that enterprising locals noticed that
the two Chinese Thai hotels were full much of the year,
so they took it upon themselves to create guesthouses.
After Bonny and Top, as I recall, came VIP and 160 Marco
Polo, but after that point I begin losing track, especially
around 1989 when tourism in Thailand underwent a substantial
increase with a Visit Thailand campaign. By around 1990
it seemed like the number of guesthouses in the area had
exploded. This is also about the time that the locals
begin tearing down the older single-story places and replacing
them with modern shophouses and multistory guesthouses
and hotels.
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QUOTES:
"No one smoothes the path like Joe Cummings, guidebook
author supreme." -- Outside magazine
"Perhaps the hardest working, best known, and most successful
guidebook writer in the world." -- Thailand & Indochina
Traveller
on Thailand: "One of those rare travel guides written
with such care and insight it deserves listing as literature."
-- American Geographical Society
on Laos: "Everything you could possibly need to know about
Laos - the wildlife, architecture, transportation, even
how to order an Ovaltine." -- USA Today
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