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Denis
Hemakom, 808 Club, Royal City Avenue (RCA), Bangkok,
Thailand |
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| What attracts the planet's
peripatetic youth to Thailand's capital? For many, their
quest is of a spiritual nature; a quest for discovery
- to find people different to themselves and situations
they would never encounter back home; to learn and to
grow… and, of course, to take in some of Bangkok's "kickass
nightlife". But with all of this passion for discovery
abounding, you can sometimes wonder if the KSR "decompression
chamber" actually has a safety net around it. It's
sad to say, but many a traveler on KSR never actually
makes it further than the police station of an evening.
Some of those that do venture out only get as far as
Rambutrri Road, where they fill their journals with
vivid descriptions of their "taste of Bangkok the traveling
masses rarely encounter". Well, as Ricky
Fitts said, "Never underestimate the power
of denial". With a philosophy
that aspires to get people off Khao San Road, KhaoSanRoad.com
had to intervene. We took a look around to find something
worth getting off the strip for - and we came up with
RCA. |
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On
RCA, we spoke to Denis Hemakom. Denis has
the luxury of being a partner of 808 Club,
which a quick sound check with a young Thai club
fanatic we know confirmed, is "the hottest place
on RCA". 100% Thai, yet a native of Washington
DC, we could find nobody better to give us an
insight into the club scene in Bangkok, RCA in
particular, and what exactly brought Grandmaster
Flash to town. |
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| RCA
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started life as a failed investment - a street
full of shop front offices that were finished
just in time to greet a massive downturn in Bangkok's
real estate market. The area's fortunes |
| turned when a couple of Thai
pop stars bought up some of the offices and opened
them up as cafes/bars. Through their fame, and
their choice of local bands as entertainment,
they encouraged an immediately loyal clientele.
When members of the government raised their eyebrows
at role models as purveyors of alcohol fueled
entertainment, the pop stars sold up, but RCA's
fame as an 'alternative' venue remained. The rest,
as they say, is history. |
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| Compare RCA (or 'Royal City
Avenue' by its proper, but now somewhat outmoded name)
and KSR, and you might be entering the Twilight Zone.
To imagine what it is like, take KSR, shake off all
the travel agents, hotels and guesthouses, and you are
left with the clubs and entertainments venues. Now,
add a genuine club culture with top local and international
acts, and you have RCA. What's curious in the comparison
is that RCA caters to a local market with acts like
Grandmaster Flash and Ed Banger, while KSR, where the
bulk of visitors might have at even heard of DJs of
this magnitude, in general, does not. Why then aren't
legions of die hard clubbers heading from KSR to RCA
as part of their Bangkok itinerary? We ventured to 808
Club to find out. |
| 808 |
We enter a dimly lit 808 Club - clothed in black
'808' t-shirts, the club's bar staff and security
receive a military-style briefing in preparation
for tonight's big act - the DJ legend |
| Grandmaster Flash. Opposite,
Grandmaster Flash's crew are setting up turntables
and checking sound levels. It's all go in here
tonight, but despite the backdrop of industrial
efficiency, we get a warm and generous greeting
from a calm and relaxed looking Denis Hemakom.
A Thai-American, Denis looks a lot younger than
his 32 years. |
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KSR: So, how long have you been in Thailand?
Denis: I was brought up in the US, but
I came to Thailand often, and I moved here full-time
4 and half years ago.
KSR: And were you involved in the US
club scene?
Denis: Actually, I was involved in the
bio-tech industry, but I also used to run DJ
events and parties on the side. We used to do
things like throw a party in the desert 2 or
3 hours out of San Diego - that's when I was
living in California.
KSR: In the desert? That's sounds like
a lot of organizing?
Denis: Not really - these weren't 'Burning
Man' type events. There's a plateau in the desert
we called 'Fat Man's Crack' which was this huge
crack in the ground that tapered off into something
the size of a footpath. We'd set up speakers
and we'd have about 400 people there. They were
pretty intimate affairs.
KSR: You obviously know your stuff -
so the first question should be about the club
scene in the US and the club scene in Thailand;
are they at all similar?
Denis: Totally different. In the States
a venue might be just a bar and a dance floor.
It might even be a warehouse. There the focus
is on the music - here people want the package;
the sofa to sit on, the table to have their
drinks - that's part of the club experience.
I am not saying one is better than the other
- both are unique.
KSR: So where does 808 fit in?
Denis: We looked at Astra (the former
name of the club) and thought hard about where
it went wrong, and how we could fill the holes.
Yes, it's a compromise between a US club and
a Thai-style club - we have tables, but not
so many, and we have a dance floor. We really
feel like we have created a genuine international
club here. Our biggest investment was the sound
system - if it's not the best, it's equal to
the best in Thailand.
(A post interview walkabout around RCA revealed
some clubs in the area, like Denis said, had
an intriguing nature. One of the wings of Route
66 typified what Denis was talking about - rows
and rows of school desk-sized tables where you'd
expect a dance floor. The advantage though was
punters had plenty of room to house dispensers
the size of mini-beer kegs, each holding about
5 liters of 'Vodka and soda' - very handy, if
potentially life threatening.)
KSR: And what about the music?
Denis: To be honest, the 'cutting edge'
in Bangkok might really only be what the 'Top
40' clubs might play in the US. The House is
the same as the US, but there's no real Hip-Hop
hardcore here.
KSR: Do the locals really understand
the music?
Denis: Not in the same sense someone
in the US might - not really, but the changes
are encouraging. When we opened 6 months ago
and we had a big name in, I'd send pictures
back home and my friends would say, 'Is that
Thailand?' - they'd just see rows of white faces
with maybe a couple of Asians - a similar dynamic
to clubs in some parts of the US. We had 'DJ
Nu-Mark' here and he said the same thing - he
felt he might as well have been playing in the
US. But even in the short time we have been
open - 6 months - there have been changes. Now
when we bring in a big name we can expect much
closer to a 50/50 split between Thais and foreigners.
Regular nights, it's a typically Thai scene,
but at events like Grandmaster Flash - well,
you'll see tonight.
(And although it was probably more 40-60 loaded
in the favor of foreigners, he was closer to
the mark than we expected.)
KSR: So, in the West a lot of 'youth
culture' - for want of a better word - comes
from grassroots, the streets, and works its
way up to mainstream. Here in Thailand the music
on the streets is the music farmers listen to
in the Northeast of Thailand, or Ad Carabao-type
'Songs for Life' music - which is never heading
for mainstream. If club music doesn't have any
roots in Thailand, can it ever be anything more
than fashion here? I mean, let's face it - the
people who come to your club are pretty well
off.
Denis: Maybe, but the people who come to
808 don't come here because they are rich; they
come here because they like the club and the music
we play. Yes, the people into this music have
traditionally been pretty well off in Thailand
- they've studied abroad, they have done an MA
at college in New York or Washington, but they've
grown an understanding and appreciation for the
music. They have brought it back, and they have
made it accessible to people in Thailand. Bands
like Thaitanium
- they spent a long time in New York. Clubs like
Route, Slim, Santika sprung up to cater for the
demand or adjusted their format, all |
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big opulent places - where we fit in is by providing something
a bit different. Yes, we want to make money - but we also
want to be accessible. We could charge 1,000 Baht ($35) at
the door for Grandmaster Flash, but we are not, we're charging
700 Baht ($21). Like you said, in the US things start at the
street and work their way up, while here there has been a
trickle down. We play a part in educating people so that they
start to feel going to a club is a good way to spend their
time. We want people to come regularly, not just for events.
KSR: In your opinion, what does RCA have to offer?
Denis: It offers some really great clubs - Route
66, Flix, Slim, House of Bangkok, 808 of course - they are
all good places. It also offers diversity - down the road
you have 'Old Leung' - it's a rock venue. There are clubs
here full of students dancing to local pop music. You get
live bands down here. Some good places to eat. Also, it's
an Entertainment Zone - that means we get a license to do
this and we can legitimately stay open until 2:00 a.m. We're
still going when you get kicked out of most places in Bangkok.
KSR: It's clear RCA has a genuine club culture and
you have international acts here that Westerners and others
might already know, so why aren't there legions of clubbers
coming down from KSR?
Denis: We have asked the same question and didn't
really come up with an answer. Perhaps it's the distance
in uncharted territory…
KSR: You mean they're shit scared?
Denis: (smiles) Or perhaps they are in Thailand
and they don't want that sort of thing - perhaps they came
here to get away from clubs. We tried piggybacking a few
acts down there (KSR) when they came to Astra, but it didn't
really work out. Who knows - if you find out the answer
let me know! (smiles)
KSR: Would it be a good thing? Herds of foreigners
in a traditionally Thai scene?
Denis: Anything that gets people to see more of
Thailand has to be a good thing.
KSR: OK - RCA, Bangkok. Why Grandmaster Flash?
Denis: Well - it's personal!
KSR: So this is just for you?
Denis: (smiles) Right - you see in this job I have
had the opportunity to meet some of my heroes. Jazzy Jeff,
DJ Premier - as I was growing up Grandmaster Flash was the
man. He was just - you know… a hero. So, yes this is just
for me, but it's also a safe bet. We're going to sell out
tonight - it's not a problem.
KSR: Aren't you worried about too many old people
turning up with walking frames or electric wheelchairs?
"Yes - they've been on the phone all day today",
interrupted Dave, Denis' British partner.
KSR: Have they been asking 'Is it the real Grandmaster
Flash?'
Dave: That's right!
KSR: So what's the next big thing at 808 after Grandmaster
Flash?
Denis: Ed Banger August 2 (tonight) - it's the one
we've had the most requests for.
KSR: OK - well good luck tonight and good luck with
Ed Banger.
Denis: Thanks.
Three hours later, Grandmaster Flash was making people
make some noise and work up a sweat that could only have
meant bar receipts for the evening were pretty good. It
was a good night, and despite Dave's worst fears, a packed
house wielded not a single walking frame and no fire risk
bylaws were broken. Strange how things change and stay the
same. I guess quality always does and Grandmaster Flash
played an awesome set. Although it lacked some of the presence
his earlier days mustered, it was still powerful. But what's
to compare - there was nothing when Grandmaster Flash started
off, so of course he was going to be amazing then. OK -
it wasn't the 80s, but Grandmaster Flash in Bangkok? Has
to be awesome enough!
If you ever feel like venturing off KSR and ending up at
RCA, probably the best way is get a taxi to Hualumpong Railway
station and catch the MRT. Get off at Praram 9 station,
and get out of the station on the 'True Head Office' side
(you will see the signs). From there, take another taxi
to RCA. Yes, there is a bus route, but you don't want to
bother late at night - bear in mind RCA is a late venue…
things really don't really get going until around 10:30-11:00
pm.
Tip: Leave before 2:00 am. When the masses move
onto the street, getting a taxi is a bitch, and at that
time of night you aren't going to find another way back
to KSR easily.
If you want to know more about 808 Club visit their website.
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