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I went to Malaysia very much on a whim; AirAsia
had one of their coveted seat sales and time
was permissive. However, I didn't know what
to expect; if the customs of a predominantly
Muslim country would accomodate the the anything-goes
backpacker mentality of Thailand. What I discovered
was one of the most energetic and diverse cities
in Southeast Asia. From architecture and culture
to shopping and food; Kuala Lumpur (or "KL"
to people in the know) serves up eclectic mixes
of each. Dense markets and spicy street food
in the Indian district, women in full burkas
flaunting Fendi bags and Dior sunglasses, and
the nicest skyline this side of Manhattan. From
my homebase in the heart of the Golden Triangle
(KL's bustling downtown), I spent a few busy
days in the middle of it all.
While traveling Malaysia might not be as cheap
as, say, rural Vietnam, budget-conscious travellers
won't be shortchanged. In Kuala Lumpur, backpackers
flock to the neon lights of Chinatown (Jalan
Petaling) for cheap beds, cheap streetvendor
wares, and cheap beer on outdoor patios. With
all the trappings of a Sino-Malaysian Khaosan
Road (minus the Jack Johnson, 24/7), this is
the place to meet fellow backpackers. Seeking
a bit of tourist anonymity? Jalan Bukit Bintang
in the Golden Triange has reasonable accomodation
in the heart of the city, a few blocks from
trendy shops and chic nightclubs. The funky
Number Eight Guesthouse (No 8-10, Jalan Tengkat
Tung Shin) may be one of the best (and cleanest)
guesthouses in Southeast Asia. KL's famous East-meets-Middle-East-meets-West
population is the stuff of true urban multiculturalism,
and this is reflected in its buildings. The
Petronas Twin Towers (scaled famously by Connery
and Zeta-Jones in Entrapment), one fo the tallest
structures in the world and Malaysia's most
iconic, sits at the northern edge of the Golden
Triangle. It's base operates as a very chic,
very Western shopping mall. Admission to the
Skybridge is free, but involves long line-ups
for very limited tickets. Those seeking a view
of the city should hit the observation deck
of KL tower (on Jalan Punchak) for less crowds
and a striking view of the twin towers themselves.
From a bird's eye view, you'll also spot the
40-metre clocktower of the Sultan Abdul Samad
Building (Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin). This courthouse
was the original headquarters of the Colonial
Secretariat, and the Islamic-inspired, British-designed
building is one of KL's most stunning landmarks.
Also notable on the skyline are the three domes
of the Jamel Mosque, modeled after India's Mogul,
and the blue umbrella-shaped roof of the National
Mosque, whose Malay-Islamic design breaks the
usual Arabic-Islamic architectural mould. Each
of these buildings are open to the public and
stunning from the inside.
If you want to take in some culture, KL's Islamic
Arts museum (on Jalah Lembah Perdana) displays
ethnic artifacts, costumes, textiles and art,
along with models of the world's most famous
mosques. The ornate turquoise dome on the roof
is the perfect spot for some fresh air and photos.
Those looking for daytrips into the Malaysian
countryside have many destinations (and tour
companies) to choose from. The famous Batu caves,
used as temples by Hindu priests, are full of
beautiful statues and the odd monkey. Romantics
and entymologists shouldn't miss a nighttime
river tour in nearby Kuala Selangor, where guests
board rowboats to see the fireflies that populate
the dense mangroves.
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