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Hoi An is the type of place that, on paper, sounds
like an ideal overnight stopover for travelers journeying
down the long spine of Vietnam. It's small, forever
labelled "charming," and the famed tourist sites of
traditional houses and bridges are all located in
a tight, walkable circuit.
Ask any traveler, however, and they will tell you
differently. "Hoi An," they will inevitably say, "is
a town you won't want to leave."
Located between the once-empirical Hue and breezy,
beachy Nha Trang, this town's multicultural architecture
offers a glimpse into the foreign influences that
have shaped Vietnam. In the 16th century, this town
was a shipping powerhouse, attracting overseas merchants
who would sometimes settle wealthily in the town.
These foreign influences are still resonant in the
town's architecture, with centuries-old Chinese and
Japanese buildings blending with French-style colonial
structures. One of the biggest draws of this city
is its historical feel, the fantastic absence of neon
signs and skyscrapers. While the shops and restaurants
are mostly tourist-oriented, the architecture and
layout of the city remains beautifully uncompromised.
There's no shortage of hotels in this vibrant tourist
city. Hoi An, famous for its dime-a-dozen tailoring
shops, is a popular stopover with bus tours and travel
groups looking to score some cheap Vietnamese souvenirs.
As a result, hotels and guesthouses vary from the
uber-elegant to the bare-bones minimum. If you're
going to splurge, this is one of the best places to
do it, with breezy, luxurious hotels like the Green
Field Hotel (20$-35$/night for a double, www.hoiangreenfieldhotel.com).
Budget travelers can take their pick from dozens of
tiny guesthouses in the centre of the city. The popular
Dai Long Hotel on Hai Ba Trung street, or the cosy
Hop Yen Hotel on A Nhi Trung, offer rooms from 6$-10$
per night. These multi-purpose guesthouses will also
help you with bus tickets, tourist maps, bike rentals,
and even discounts on local tailors.
For sightseers, the heart of Hoi An lies over the
Japanese bridge in the Old Town, where old Chinese
shopfronts now boast tourist galleries and shops.
For about 5$, visitors can buy a multipurpose ticket
for five attractions. These tickets are available
at most guesthouses. Some favourites of the tour include
the Cantonese Assembly Hall (176 Tran Phu Street),
whose cool chambers and ornate dragons are a photographer's
paradise. Hoi An's three traditional old houses are
a cross between museum and residences, where descendants
of the founding families will show you around. The
most attractive of the three is the Phung Hung house,
also west of the Japanese bridge.
Hungry visitors will delight in Hoi An's mix of tourist
friendly international cuisine, along with mouthwatering
local dishes made with the freshest fish and vegetables.
Prices tend to be inflated in the tourist areas, but
some of the best (and most scenic) spots are down
by the river, either at the Blue Dragon (who also
sponsor a local children's charity), or across the
water on Cam Nam island. Also on the island, the slightly-pricey
Lighthouse Restaurant
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